Diagnostics and repair
When a Heat Pump Stops Keeping Up
Diagnosis first, parts second — because the fix is often airflow or a setting, not a component.
Ladysmith Heat Pumps diagnoses systems across Ladysmith, Chemainus and Saltair, where salt corrosion on outdoor coils is a common cause of early failures. If your system shows no heat, short-cycles, or leans on backup electric heat, we compare repair costs against a $3,500 to $18,000 replacement before rebates so you can choose the best option.
When a heat pump stops working, the underlying cause is rarely what you first suspect. We rule out the cheaper explanations before we condemn a compressor.
We quote diagnostic calls individually, with simple controls or sensors at the lower end and compressor or coil replacements costing significantly more. When evaluating an older unit, we compare repair costs against a new system priced from $3,500 to $18,000 before rebates. These prices are estimate ranges only, and we perform a full diagnosis before recommending repairs.
The three symptoms, and what they usually mean
No heat at all is most often electrical or control-side rather than mechanical — a tripped breaker, a failed contactor or capacitor, or a thermostat switched to a mode nobody intended. Compressor failure does happen, but sits far down the list of first checks.
Short-cycling, where the system starts and stops every few minutes, points at oversizing, low refrigerant charge, or restricted airflow. If a system was installed without a heat loss calculation, oversizing causes short-cycling that no component repair can fix.
When a unit runs on backup electric heat, you usually notice it on your hydro bill rather than as a system fault. A heat pump that has quietly stopped carrying the load hands off to resistance elements and keeps the house warm while consuming several times the electricity. That can continue for a full winter unnoticed.
What salt air does over time
The failures that arrive early on this coast are corrosion failures. Salt carried off Ladysmith Harbour and the Saltair shoreline settles on outdoor coils, cabinet fasteners and service valves, and works on them continuously rather than seasonally.
Corroded coil fins lose heat transfer capability long before you notice visible surface damage. Fasteners seize, panels become difficult to open without damage, and valve stems weep.
You can protect your outdoor coil by rinsing it with fresh water a few times a year at no cost. Units without coastal protection benefit most, because they have the least margin.
Repair or replace
We help you decide between repair and replacement based on system age, component failure, and available rebates.
Control boards, capacitors, contactors, sensors and fan motors are generally worth repairing at almost any system age. Compressors and outdoor coils are not, on an older unit — the part cost approaches a meaningful fraction of a new system, and the rest of the equipment is the same age as the part that just failed.
Available rebates can change the overall math when comparing repair costs against replacement. If your system qualifies under the CleanBC Energy Savings Program, a replacement may cost less than expected, but replacing an existing heat pump is not eligible for provincial rebates.
How a service call runs
- 1
Symptom, then history — What the system is doing, when it started, and what changed around it. A unit that stopped after a power event points somewhere different from one that has degraded over two winters.
- 2
Airflow and settings first — We check for blocked filters, dirty outdoor coils, thermostat emergency heat settings, and closed supply registers before opening up any equipment.
- 3
Electrical and refrigerant — Voltage at the unit, contactor and capacitor condition, defrost operation, and refrigerant charge. Low charge means a leak, and a leak means finding it rather than topping up and rebooking.
- 4
Repair or replace options — We present repair costs side by side with a replacement quote, noting that replacing an existing heat pump does not qualify for rebates.
What the job includes
Heat pump diagnostics
Symptom-led diagnosis covering airflow, controls, electrical and refrigerant charge before any part is ordered.
Component repair and coil replacement
Repair of control boards, capacitors, contactors, fan motors and corroded outdoor coils, with a replacement comparison where age warrants one.
Where systems fail first
Systems within sight of the water show corrosion earliest. Inland installs toward Yellow Point tend to fail on more conventional causes — airflow, controls, and age.
People also ask
How do you know if a heat pump is running on backup heat?
The clearest signal is a hydro bill rising with no change in habits. Many thermostats display an auxiliary or emergency heat indicator when the elements engage. A system that runs constantly without the outdoor unit sounding is another sign.
Is a refrigerant top-up a real repair?
No. A sealed system does not consume refrigerant, so low charge means a leak. Topping up without finding the leak returns the system to the same condition within a season and vents refrigerant in the meantime.
How long should a heat pump last?
System service life is shorter on coastal properties if you do not choose coastal protection or perform regular coil rinsing.
Can a heat pump be repaired in winter?
Yes, and that is when most calls happen. The constraint is parts availability rather than weather — a common control component is usually same-week, while a compressor or coil for an older model can take longer to source.
For the two helpful guides to read next, start with: heat pump installation for what a full replacement would involve, and the heat pump cost guide for how repair compares against replacing. We also cover heat pump repair in Saltair.
Start with the house
We just need your address, current heating system and rough timing for a first conversation.